> Michael A. Terrell wrote:

> > Jamie wrote:

> >>MooseFET wrote:

> >>>On Nov 1, 9:38 pm, ehsjr <eh...@nospamverizon.net> wrote:

> >>>>Jamie wrote:

> >>>><snip>

> >>>>>The older homes used armor/Bx type wire most of the time, that supplies
> >>>>>the ground. Not a good one but one good enough for a GFCI most of the
> >>>>>time.
> >>>>> And there are still homes with knob & tube still in service.. think
> >>>>>about those who have put in U-ground receptacles that have no ground.

> >>>>>As stated before, GCFI do not work with out a ground.

> >>>>Jamie, That is simply not true.

> >>>>GFCIs *DO NOT* need a ground to work.

> >>>>Ed

> >>>Also:  If you can't get a ground wire to the box, you have no business
> >>>putting a U-ground outlet in there.  You can run a coper wire back to
> >>>the water pipe taking any route that works.

> >>>BTW:  I took a GFI apart.  The black and white go through a core a
> >>>couple of times in the same direction.  Many turns on the core hook to
> >>>the electronics.  The electronics drives a coil that yanks the trigger
> >>>out on the thing that goes "snap".  The green wire does not go into
> >>>the area.

> >>  The ground is not connected to the electronics in a GFCI receptacle.

> >>  The idea is to have the balanced circuit come into contact with a
> >>ground at the appliance. This will unbalance the circuit..

> >>   of course, this won't work if the appliance does not have a ground one
> >>way of another.

> >>    Some GFCI's are designed to trip any way if the balanced current
> >>saturates the core and thus generates enough mag field to snap the
> >>  latch.

> >    What a blithering dumbass you are, Maynard.  If the two wire device
> > has more than the GFCI's rated leakage, the GFCI will trip.  In that
> > case, something has to allow current flow.  Since there is no chassis
> > ground, it can be through a person but it will trip before it can hurt
> > you.

> I don't normally resort to childish words but!